Posts Tagged motorcycle

How We Make A Custom Motorcycle Gel Seat! (With Pictures)

VTX Seat   As some of you may know, I am in the business of taking stock motorcycle seats and making them more comfortable, because anyone that’s ridden for more than 20 minutes know that stock seats suck.

 
  There are two things we do, one is shaving down some of the stock foam and replacing it with memory foam. This has proven to be an improvement, but we’re not satisfied with it. While it is better, it just doesn’t seem like it’s worth the time, effort and money that it requires. Currently we charge $90 for this service, and I’m not going to detail the process because we have moved on to bigger and better things. Gel!

 
  Gel is not revolutionary, but it is expensive. As far as my research indicates, Impact Gel seems to be the cheapest and most effective solution. Just a quick note, that $65 price tag is misleading. Check the picture if you don’t believe me. That $65 option is almost worthless for most motorcycle riders. You will need to buy the Large or Extra Large option to make the best use of it, which is $90-$110 respectively. Even that price tag is a bit much.

 
  We decided to find the most common form of gel and adapt it to our uses. There were two options, foot sole inserts or keyboard wrist rests. Honestly, the foot sole is probably a higher caliber gel but again you have to pay for it. They’re not very thick, and the impact is very condensed. We wanted a broader, softer more plush feel that provided substantial suspension in the rear compartment (your butt). We went with the keyboard wrist rest.
VTX Seat
Hopefully three will be enough, let’s see!

 
  This is the Honda VTX stock seat from the side. As you can see it has a decent shape, and it’s fairly comfortable. Compared to some OEM seats I’ve had the pleasure of sitting on, this one is actually not half bad. That’s not to say that it’s good, but it could definitely use an upgrade. That’s where we come in! We bought three of those keyboard wrist rests and stripped them out of their protective fabric shell and rubber bottom. MAN is this stuff sticky, but very pliable and easy to mold.

Belkin Wrist Rests - Naked
2 Belkin Wrist Rests stripped naked (gel porn?)

 
 
Naked VTX SeatCut Lines
Chunk with seatGutted Seat
Here’s the seat naked, as well as the chunk that we excised (with extreme caution!)

 


Seat Chunk
  The seat chunk that was removed is quite sizable. We will be carving out of both the sliver removed from the seat and the seat itself. The seat itself is relatively simple. We will be shaving the seat down to make a better shaped cushion. We use the roughest sandpaper lying around and shave down some in the middle area to create a bit more of a bucket, and that’s that. The sliver however requires a much more delicate hand. We have to keep the outer edges of the sliver more or less in tact, but we need to remove a fairly large amount of the foam if we want to maintain the stock shape, and that’s one of the primary restraints. If we maintain the OEM shape, then we can use the OEM cover without any loss of style. That was a big hurdle we had to learn for ourselves and it took many tries before we got it into our thick heads to stop tempting the wrinkled-vinyl gods. We carved approximately 1 inch out of the inside of the sliver (and I promise this is the part you will need the most patience for if you attempt this on your own). Delicate maneuvering with a 14″ long reciprocating electric knife takes practice, but we’ve made experts out of this and in case you’re wondering, yes these skills transferring beautifully to a turkey, I cut shapes that you wouldn’t think possible out of my thanksgiving meat…there’s a joke there somewhere.

 

Shaving
Nothing interesting here, just shaving away…

 
2 strips of gel
  I assure you, cutting gel is about as easy as cutting your toenails with safety scissors meant for a 3rd grader. As you can see our first cut did not go over so well, but we did err on the side of too large for just that reason. Because this stuff is so easy to mold and shape, any extra pieces we had to cut off after could be very easily used to fill in gaps, and they were. Very little gel actually went to waste.

 

First Gel FitMounted FitGel ThicknessAlmost done!Final Naked Shot
Getting the gel all in, plus the final naked shot!


Putting the skin backall sealed uplast picture!
  Reskinning the seat is always interesting. We have to glue the cover back down or we can never match the OEM shape. We haven’t tried it yet, but I have purchased silicon sealant that I would like to experiment with here, but for this seat we used spray on adhesive. It holds the shape well, but the crap that the manufacturer puts on underneath the cover doesn’t come off cleanly and ends up leaving some kind of lumpiness and it is visible. We used a heat gun to help us stretch the vinyl without putting stress in the wrong places (i.e. the stitching).

 
  Next time I do this I will likely try to strip the inside of the cover completely, as much as I loathe that delicate process that at any given moment could go clear through the cover itself I think it will complete the one thing we’re missing — a professional finish. Our seats are comfortable, they’re shaped great, and priced very competitively, but we’re missing the panache that defines a real professional. You can definitely see our work in the pictures, and I don’t intend to hide it. We are forever learning and improving our methods, so think of it this way: If you like the seat, know that yours will be even better! The next seat I do I will attempt to put an additional layer of gel directly underneath the cover to provide a plusher feel but more importantly that smooth grade I keep talking about. Unfortunately because of the cost of materials the cost of the seats have gone up; the level of comfort however increased by much more so you are still coming out ahead!

 
  I hope this helps you with your project or convinces you to send your business my way :)
emailavinasharora@gmail.com to get in touch with me.

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Custom Fender – Part II.d (Bondo!)

Bondo'd fender
Can it be bondo times now? (read: stupid caturday compositional risk). Time for another custom fender update, and as you may have guessed it’s all about bondo!

What do you say instead of me blabbing about it, we just get right into it?

Lots and lots of bondo. Yummy! This stuff hardens pretty quick, and is startlingly easy to work with. Maybe it’s normal, and we’re just used to how much of a pain fiberglass is to work with, but bondo was a very nice change of pace. As you can see, we were very liberal with it (and we had to be, better safe than sorry). We figured we’d just start thick and sand down. So here we are. We used some graters to do the really rough and excess ridges, but for the most part we used various sanding instruments and eventually moved to sponges with finer grits.


bondo
Progress…
 
More bondo
More Progress!!
 
Even More Bondo
Almost done with the grater
 

Test fit
Honestly, this test fit was completely unnecessary. It really didn’t help us do anything except see what it looked like…sort of. I mean, the fender wasn’t even cut, it was BARELY sanded down…but we just couldn’t help ourselves. I think this was us taking a break because our fingers had cramps. Now for a time lapse, because the in-between-shots are even more boring than the pictures I’m already forcing on you.

Done with Bondo 1
First coat of bondo relatively complete.
 
Done with Bondo 2
As you can see, there are lots of bubbles, and the spine is very faint.
 

Spine!Once you start using Bondo, I propose that you are never really done with Bondo. So far I have been right… So we needed to make the spine more prominent. Since none of you can see where we’re cutting the fender, you’ll have to wait and see the end result, but we know the fender is going to be very short, just barely beyond the passenger seat in fact. If we’re going to make a spine it needs to be very prominent, or else risk looking simply like a dent or imperfect bend. We took a strip of metal mesh, 4 inches wide by 14 inches long, (the same mesh we used on the interior reinforcement) and bent it width wise in half to make a V shape. Upside down and placed over the faint spine and completely filled and surrounded it with bondo. Here are the preliminary results! If you enlarge it, you can see the mesh poking out the end (which is fine). Not only can we trim the metal later, but we’re trimming the whole fender so the sloppiness of the edge is really of no consequence.

 
 
Beautiful Spine
Honestly, who needs a DSLR when you have floodlights? This dramatic lighting was unintentional but it definitely shows how much more drastic the spine has become. This experience has really changed how I see bodywork. I no longer see something like this as ugly, it’s simply not beautiful yet. You also might notice the whole fender is a bit messy. We attempted to fill in a lot of bigger bubbles with the heavyweight bondo. Something I recommend doing only once, but since we didn’t learn about light weight bondo for bubbles we ended up doing this several times as you will see in the pictures to come.


Bondo nearly complete
Initial Bondo is nearly complete!
 

Cut Preview
We finished the prime sanding, up to 220. This is nowhere near complete, but it’s finally starting to look like it’s heading somewhere. Just a teaser, these are the first cut lines we drew out. Don’t mind the stripes on the sides, I’ll explain those in the next update :)

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Custom Fender – Part II.c (Fiberglass Reinforcement!)

So the shell was made. It was not very strong, and far from road worthy. First, we had to reinforce it. Since we made the fiberglass fender on the outside of the current fender, it’s safe to presume that the fiberglass copy is just a hair larger than what it should be. For that reason, we decided to reinforce on the inside.

We skipped a few steps without photographing, but basically we trimmed all the excess fiberglass strands to clean it up and then cut all the edges, and sanded them to make it crisper, otherwise it would be more like a case for the current fender. This still isn’t the final shape, but it’s getting closer.

The entire inside was sanded to remove bubbles, soft spots, unevenness etc. and then we cut fiberglass matting exact to fit. On top of the fiberglass you can kind of see it in the image, we used an aluminum screen door sheet to create a mesh support matrix, and when it dried it really, REALLY strengthened the fender.

Now, to apply even pressure to the entire inside of the fender while it was curing (because it kept peeling off) we use a trash bag filled with water, like a gigantic water balloon. If I were to do it again, I’d find a different way to do it, this was NOT desirable. If you decide to pursue this method, know that we use THREE contractor grade bags to make absolutely certain it didn’t break and ruin the entire thing.

You’ll note in the picture below that there are lots of clamps around the fender. They served two purposes, one was to line the edge and make sure the edges adhered perfectly, and the longer ones going across the width of the fender…well, this is why I’d try to find a different way to do this next time. When we put the super-water-balloon inside the fender, it bowed out the shape quite a bit. We used the long pipe clamps to compress the sides and return it back to it’s normal size while curing. It worked out okay for us, but I don’t think I’d risk it, because there’s a LOT of places to screw up, and frankly we did mess up a large portion of it. Luckily, the portion we messed up was being cut off anyway.

Rise and shine! After siphoning out the water VERY carefully (there were several GALLONS of water inside, and lifting was too risky) we used a blow drier to get out the last little bits of moisture and then let it cure for a bit longer.

Bondo time!

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Custom Fender – Part II.b (Fiberglass Shell!)

This was much more enjoyable, and felt like it would produce better results. We started the process by using the current Jackpot fender as a base. This was the key different, most of the other stuff was relatively similar. We used saran wrap to completely mask off the fender, and painter’s tape to get the seams. On top of the clear saran wrap we used spray adhesive to hold long strand fiberglass mat in place. We covered the entire fender with the fiberglass matting, the spray adhesive was only to make the next step easier. We wrapped the entire fender in a T-shirt, and to stretch it underneath we bunched up as much as we could and stapled it:

We knew this fender was going to be much shorter than the current one, so we weren’t concerned with making it all the way to the edge, just well over our cutting area:

More or less ready for tons and tons of resin to solidify the whole thing:

Because of how quickly resin becomes gelatinous we had to make it in batches. Approximately 1 cup of resin at a time. If the resin becomes really stringy and semi-jello like, it becomes VERY difficult to work with, but that’s only because of the long strand fiberglass. It grabs it and really moves the stuff around, sometimes clearing entire spots with a single swipe by accident. So, after two batches of resin:

After all the resin is done (for the first coat, anyways) and ready to dry for a looong time. This is the longest drying period, because the original fender is still underneath, which means the saran wrap is still underneath, and once the resin seals off on the outside, the inside takes a tremendously long time to fully cure. We ended up waiting 2 full days and it still wasn’t done, but it was hard enough that we could remove it delicately and let it dry without the backbone.

Still glossy in the next few pictures, but time did pass in between the shots. You can see what I mean about the drying just not happening with the fender still inside:



Finally getting dry to the touch!!

Here are the version 1 and version 2 (alpha) fenders:

The next step is to trim up the shell and start reinforcing it, after all it was still going to be functional as a fully supportive bracket for a passenger seat and a passenger.


On to reinforcing!

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DIY Heated Clothing – Part III

The aftermath. So, I ended up undoing a lot of what I had done. Go figure, all the DIY articles on the topic I read online were right, but I had to try improving their method otherwise I wouldn’t be able to live with myself.

As it turns out, the sleeves got REALLY hot, resulting in my shutting off the clothing before the rest of me was warm, but that wasn’t too big of a problem. The biggest problem I incurred were the connections. Connecting the heated wire to the jacks were VERY finicky, even when I RTV’ed them sealed. The gloves resulted in a broken connection which made the whole setup invalid, so I eventually got rid of them and just used the jacket. The jacket worked really well, but I had to fix the sleeves.

What I replaced the jacket with was the jacket liner, essentially a vest. I did the liner itself so when I didn’t need the warming stuff, i wouldn’t have wires running up and down my jacket bothering me. I didn’t weave it through the jacket though, I went the extra long way and stitched it on the inside, this way you can’t see it except for the wires running to my accessory plug. I like this better, so I suppose I did eventually improve on the method slightly. Some more pics!

Here’s my jacket with the liner installed, see how it’s almost unnoticeable? =)
heated vest
and here’s the inside of the liner exposed for all the world to see:
vest inside
You’ll notice I skipped the area by the small of my back. Everyone else says this part gets the coldest, but I have a backrest on my bike for touring and comfort, so for me it doesn’t actually get cold at all. If you give it a go, however I recommend giving that a shot.

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DIY Heated Clothing – Part II

Got the blanket today! Stripped the inner lining:

electric heat blanket

So I stripped out all the wire, which took a little while but it wasn’t all that bad. I’ve managed to pull out the wire, go out to radio shack and buy 1/4″ Mono phono jacks (3 males, 3 females), and get cheap black weave gloves from K-mart.

So far total price of this project is $37, and I’m nearly done. Here’s all the cable woven through the glove:

heated wire weave

and here’s the jacket:

jacket

and here’s all of it hooked up:

full setup

I did a quick test, and man does it get HOT!!! Currently I have no system of control besides unplugging it. I’m going to install a switch or something, a rheostat/pot resistor that’s high wattage is ridiculously expensive. I found an electronic controller online, but it’s $20, and I don’t have the time to wait for it. I’ll probably buy a switch and put something in my jacket or on the line itself.

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DIY Heated Clothing – Part I

I decided I was going to buy the gerbings heated gloves this winter season, because that’s the part of my body that REALLY needs it. After pricing out my setup, I then decided there must exist a cheaper way, and I must figure out a way to do it.

So i bought a heated blanket off amazon for $25.00, (used filler items to reach 25 for free shipping). The heated blanket I picked out is a travel blanket, so it uses the 12v car socket instead of an AC outlet. I have high hopes for this project.

This is my proposed plan, and please let me know me if you have any suggestions or ideas. First, obviously, is getting the wire out of the blanket. The wire is woven through the blanket and surrounded the whole way by stitching. I haven’t decided yet, but I think I’m going to cut OUTSIDE of the stitching for the wire so the entire length of heated wire has a cotton/polyester sheath.

This is going to be my wiring pattern. The plug is going to be on the left side cover, and the power cord is going through my left leg in my chaps up to my waist. It comes with a 6 ft power cord, so that’s more than enough. From my waist, it will go up my left side, through my left sleeve, then covering my gloves, I’m going to do each fingertip if I can, then run it all the way back through the sleeve to my chest. Go across the chest, through the right sleeve, over the right glove, back to my chest, and then down my right side.

since I have almost no way of knowing how much wiring I have, this is really all I’m hoping to get out of it. if I have extra, I suppose I’ll cover the crotch area, and if I have even more still, I’ll go down the legs.

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Custom Fender – Part II.a

After the very good lesson and loss of Part I, it took us a bit to get started on the second fender. One of the big problems with the first attempt was the gap left by the back of the seat to the front of the fender. Since we made the fender right on the rails it went low, unlike the stock fender which bows up to make a much rounder shape, which also fills the gap. I don’t really know why we didn’t try this in the first place, but we used his current fender as a mockup instead of something crazy. We basically (after appropriate masking and such) used a t-shirt and stretched it over his current fender, then painted it with resin. This, because of the immense size and lack of any kind of support matrix was extremely weak by itself, but it was a tremendous step because we got a nice shape.

After letting the shape dry on some beer bottles and toothpicks, we went to work on reinforcing it, making it into something usable. Our goal was another coat of long strand matting and resin on the inside, followed by a metal mesh matrix to add support, with a very thing coat of long strand matting to weave the mesh into the fender and then resin. After the whole supporting and main fender would be done. We’d move on to bondo.

Pics coming soon!

The next step

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Custom Fender – Part I

Part I was a complete bust, but here is what we did and how we failed. Don’t worry, part II is far more promising so I’ll keep this short.

So the ultimate goal was to create a fender that showed off a lot more of the rear tire on the Victory Vegas Jackpot (it’s got a 250mm wide rear, stock). If you’re not into bikes, then I suppose you won’t get this, but the rear end was just way too hidden by the stock fender.

First we went with a dyna style fender simply because the fender rails were set up as such. We really had no idea what we were doing at this point, and that was my fault. I know how to do this kind of stuff but sometimes you just get too excited and start fiberglassing too soon. We had not done the proper preparation, and we suffered later for it. Anyways, the fender rail supports:
Fender Rail Supports

We covered the fender rail supports with a metal mesh made of Gutter Guard (available at any home depot). By fiberglassing over the metal mesh, we’d be able to create a truly rigid, supportive fender:
Gutter Guard
Fender Skeleton
For the initial fiberglassing, we did it on the bike itself. We use some very heavyweight plastic sheeting to mask off the whole thing, and then put the fender skeleton back on the bike. We skinned the metal mesh with a white T shirt and did a light coat of resin, then some long strand fiberglass matting, and a thick coat of resin. After a bit, we removed it from the bike and let it dry for a day. We ripped off the plastic dropcloth from the inside of the new fender and then put some long strand fiberglass inside with some more resin. All in all we made a decent shape, and incredibly strong fender.
Skinned skeleton
first coat of fiberglass
inside coat of fiberglass

Here we tried adding a spine to the fender to match the spine that the jackpot has over the tank. Obviously this isn’t indicative of the final look, this just makes the bondo easier to do later if we have something to build on. In any case, as you know this was a mess up so on with the pictures:
spine
Some post trimming test fits:
test fit
test fit
rear tire
test with seat
tire with seat
full bike

The end result was a fender that looked kinda cool, but mostly because it was unique and we made it, but would not fit properly, was asymmetrical, and would have ended up causing way too many problems. After evaluating it, Joe and I looked at each other both ready to admit we had to start over but afraid to admit it. Eventually after much time of sitting and staring at it under the floodlight, we agreed that starting over would produce a much, much better fender. So start over we did, and thus begins Part II

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My Second Accident

I did it again, and I don’t know how I was so stupid.
I was trying to bump start (push start) my friend’s motorcycle, a CBR 600RR. I’m not used to sportbikes, and I’ve only ever push started one bike before. I was not wearing my gear, that was my first mistake. My second mistake was attempting this at all. After trying to push start it unsuccessfully about 5 times in second gear, I decided to put it in first, and it started right away….then the RPMs whizzed way up, the rear tire immediately lost traction. I fishtailed my way up to 20 mph and then flipped.

All in all, I suppose I’m very lucky. No back, spinal, neck, or head injuries. My arms are really torn up, and I think my rotator cuff is sprained. I can only lift my arm in certain ways. I had an x-ray to rule out hairline fractures, but for some reason (health insurance is blah) i’m waiting to get my MRI. I googled up some physical therapy for rotary cuff recovery, and I did some of the exercises. I definitely feel it, I can hear the ligaments when I do them. the exercises are meant to simply stretch and use the muscles while putting as little stress on them as possible. It doesn’t hurt, but it is tedious. Well, lesson learned I guess…

From now on, I’ll be wearing my gear even just to sit on my bike while it’s off. Fuck I’m stupid. No photos, sorry. I’m not vain enough to believe people want to see my scars. I may take this time stuck in my room to update my site, add a few new sections and stuff. We’ll see. Anyways, don’t be as stupid as me. Wear the gear, it will save your life.

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